Thursday, 14 May 2009

How to Travel Long Term With Only Carry-On Luggage

Our backpacks & travel guitar
Our backpacks & travel guitar
We are travelling permanently with only carry-on luggage, having sold the rest of our belongings. I have a 30 litre backpack and Simon has a 40 litre backpack and a small travel guitar. It’s been surprisingly easy to live with such small bags and to fit everything we need into them, including two laptops and an SLR camera. Life is actually much simpler when you own less.

Benefits Of Travelling With Just A Carry-On Bag

  • No wait for bags after flights.
  • No worries that the airline will lose your luggage, especially when you have connections.
  • We avoid airline fees for checked baggage.
  • We always take our backpacks on buses in South America (we can almost always fit them under our seat), which avoids worries about them being stolen from the storage compartment or roof.
  • Our bags are lighter and easier to carry around when looking for accommodation or getting to the bus station.
  • We don’t have much spare room in our backpacks so it stops us buying things we don’t really need.
Although Simon has two carry-on bags because of the extra guitar we haven’t had a problem taking these on planes, except in the Bolivian Amazon when we were travelling on tiny 18 seater planes. There was no overhead locker and very little room under the seat, so we reluctantly had to check in Simon’s larger backpack and the guitar (in a soft case) – luckily it was fine.
We could actually get away with less stuff, but we work as we travel so need laptops, and we’ve needed warmer clothes in South America for high altitudes. Even still, our backpacks are half the size of every other traveller we’ve seen. We just don’t know what they have in those huge packs!

Our Updated Packing List

We recently updated our packing list to reflect the changes that have happened over the last 10 months of travel.
Losses
Books we'll be able to replace with a Kindle
Books we'll be able to replace with a Kindle
We got rid of very few things as everything we have we use. We lost some sunglasses (now replaced) and a cardigan, and we dumped our playing cards and phrasebooks that we no longer needed.
Our biggest change is that we have just ordered a Kindle. When this arrives we will be able to leave behind our Spanish dictionary, guidebooks and three novels that we usually carry around. This will save us loads of weight, and solve the struggle to find decent, affordable books to read. We are very excited and will be writing about how we get along.
Extras
There have been a few additions:
  • Asus EeePc 10 inch netbook - We realised early on that sharing the Macbook Pro when we both need to work at the same time was not going to work, so we bought this in Buenos Aires.
  • Small Mouse – Simon needed this for design work.
  • Tiny Tabletop Tripod – This is really small and comes in handy at times, although I’d get rid of it if Simon would let me!
  • Warm Clothes -When we got to Bolivia we needed warmer clothes for the high altitude cold weather. We bought an extra fleece, thick socks, hat, gloves and scarf; and I got an extra long sleeve tshirt. All of this will be dumped as soon as we reach the Caribbean coast. We are done with the cold!
  • Kindle – As explained above when we get this it will save us tons of space and weight.

Tips for Travelling with Only Carry-On Luggage

We are firmly convinced that travelling with just carry-on bags is the way to go. Here are our tips on how to do it.
1) Choose a Small Backpack
Choose a backpack that is no bigger than 40 litres, preferably 30 litres. If your bag is small you can’t overfill it.
2) Minimise Your Clothes
Most people overpack clothes, but you can get away with very little: a few tops, a few bottoms and a fleece. Pick a colour scheme so that everything goes with everything else. It is cheap to get laundry done in many parts of the world or you can hand wash things.
Shoes are heavy so don’t take more than two pairs. We have hiking shoes and sandles. In hot climates when you aren’t doing any serious trekking then just a decent pair of sandles is enough.
The common wisdom is not to pack jeans but we do have a lightweight pair. In hot climates you don’t need them but in South America it is often cold and these are great to have. We get our laundry done for us so we haven’t had a problem with them taking too long to dry. 
3) Compress!
Packing cubes can work to squeeze your clothes into a nice organised package, but even better are compression bags. They are plastic bags that you roll up and squeeze out all the air. Ours save us loads of space.
4) Take Small Toiletries
To take your backpack on a plane you need all liquids to be under 100ml, so take small amounts of everything and restock when you need to. There are some great products that make this easier:
5) Look into Lightweight Alternatives
Our rain jacket is not much bigger than an apple
Our rain jacket is not much bigger than an apple
There are many lightweight alternatives available to heavy items. Here are some of our favourites:
  • Montane Featherlite Smock – this windproof, water resistant jacket keeps us dry in all but the heaviest downpours, weighs nothing and is the size of an apple.
  • Western Digital My Passport Hard Drive – 500GB of storage is an amazingly small and light package.
  • Martin Backpacker Travel Guitar– much smaller than a regular sized guitar and it fits in overhead lockers on planes.
  • Travel towel - Simon hates the texture of his but it does dry him and takes up far less space than a regular towel. Most accommodation provides one anyway so it definitely isn’t worth carrying something bigger. I have a 20 year old threadbare towel that packs down as small as a travel towel but has a real towel feel.
6) Go Paperless
Books are heavy so the Kindle is going to make a real difference to us. We also got rid of our paper journals and started writing on the computer instead. We do carry a pocket size notebook for jotting things down when out and about. When we are settled somewhere we often buy a cheap school notebook for planning (sometimes paper is just better for this), but we get rid of it when we are done.
You can take photos of any documents you need, although we do carry copies of our passport.

Light cotton shoulder bag we use as a daypack
Light cotton shoulder bag we use as a daypack
7) No Daypack
My 30 litre backpack is actually daypack size so we use this for long treks or when we need a bigger bag. The rest of the time we use a thin cotton shoulder bag that packs away in our main bag, or can be used for extra storage: we often use it for food on long bus rides. 
8 ) Share Power Cables
We have two cameras and two laptops and they all (annoyingly) have different chargers. All the chargers use the samesize kettle lead power cord though. Rather than taking four identical power cords we just have two for when we need to power both laptops at the same time. We never need to charge all four devices at once, and this saves space.
Even better, one of the leads fits European style plugs and the other US style (UK plugs are too bulky and less common). We have found either of these two covers us all over South America, so we could even get away with losing our travel power adaptor.
We charge our iPods through our laptops with the small Apple cable.
9) Take a Small Camera. Maybe.
I do have an SLR with a big 18-200mm zoom lens, but it is heavy and takes up a significant amount of space in my 30 litre bag. There are times (mostly in cities when I don’t take it out much) when I feel like getting rid of it, but then we see the amazing landscapes of Bolivia’s southwest or spot wildlife in the Amazon and I’m so glad I have it.
There are some great compact cameras around so if you aren’t already into SLR photography then it might be a good idea to stick with a smaller camera.
10) Leave the Penknife
A penknife is one of those really useful items that are always on travel packing lists. In fact, we rarely used ours and you can’t take them on planes in your carry-on bag so we didn’t bring one this time. We haven’t missed it. We picked up a plastic knife from a takeaway and this is good enough for cutting bread, cheese and tomatoes for sandwiches. We haven’t needed it for anything else.
11) Only Take the Essentials
Beware those packing lists that list many items that “might come in handy”. In two years of travel we have never needed a sleeping bag, sleep sheet, mosquito net, washing line, travel sink plug (they don’t work very well anyway and a sock does the job), travel pillow, door stop or collapsable bowl.
That said, we do find a small roll of gaffa/duct tape handy for fixing things and taping over holes in mosquito nets (you could manage without it though) and head torches are definitely very useful if you are going anywhere you won’t have power at night (or places like India and Nepal that have frequent power cuts).
Ultimately you have to decide what is most important to you.

Saturday, 25 April 2009

Photo Essay: Yee Peng Floating Lantern Festival, Chiang Mai

Yee Peng Floating Lantern Festival, Chiang Mai
The Chiang Mai regulars rave about the Yee Peng (or Yi Peng) floating lantern festival that takes place each year, and after attending the event last weekend we are now amongst the converts. It was one of the most incredible, beautiful sights we have ever seen.
Yee Peng is an ancient, traditional Lanna festival that takes place in northern Thailand to pay respect to Buddha. Chiang Mai has the biggest celebration.
After arriving hours early to take our place in the field, and waiting eagerly in the hot sun, the ceremony began with Buddhist chanting and meditation led by monks in saffron robes. It was peaceful and beautiful, but I’ll admit that by the end of the hour-long religious ceremony we were restless, having already waited for four hours. Finally we were instructed to light our candles mounted on stands throughout the field. The field was illuminated with the soft glow of thousands of flickering candles.
Waiting to release lanterns at Yee Peng
Candle at Yee Peng
Then it was time to light our paper lanterns or Khom Loy. At 90 cm in diameter they weren’t the easiest things to handle between the two of us (especially as I was taking photos with one hand), and our awkwardness alerted the event staff who came to help us and make sure we didn’t set the whole thing on fire.
Simon lighting lantern at Yee Peng
Once the lanterns are lit you hold them for a few minutes and wait while they fill with hot air and inflate.
Inflated lanterns at Yee Peng
The field fills with huge inflated lanterns, everyone eagerly awaiting the signal to release them.
Inflated lanterns waiting for release at Yee Peng
Then, it’s time. Thousand of lanterns are released at the same moment into the night sky.
Release of lanterns at Yee Peng
Above us, all around us, we are surrounded by glowing, floating lanterns. That one moment is one of the most magical and surreal we have ever experienced.
Yee Peng lantern release
The sky fills with lanterns. As a reader on our Facebook page commented, like luminescent jelly fish in the deep ocean.
Yee Peng floating lanterns, Chiang Mai
They float upwards surprisingly quickly.
Yee Peng festival
The initial release is the most spectacular, but we didn’t want it to end, so were glad that there are a few more lantern releases.
We lit our second lantern.
Us releasing our lantern at Yee Peng
And watched it join the others in the sky.
Second lantern release at Yee Peng
Just when we thought the event couldn’t get any more spectacular, fireworks exploded amongst the lanterns.
Fireworks at Yee Peng, Chiang Mai
Fireworks at Yee Peng
As the lanterns drifted further away into the black sky they looked like orange stars.
Yee Peng lanterns drifting away
Once the final lanterns are released the jubilant mood becomes more serene. Candles flicker and gently illuminate the field while lanterns gleam overhead. A praying family reminds us that this is a religious event, a time to pay respect to Buddha.
Praying family at Yee Peng

How to Attend Yee Peng

If you would like to attend Yee Peng in future years here are some practical details.
The biggest Yee Peng (also written as Yi Peng) festival takes place in Chiang Mai every year around the end of October or November. The exact date depends on the moon cycles which the Lanna calendar is based upon. The floating lantern festival happens at around the same time as the nationwide Loy Krathong Festival which will take place around 10th November in 2011.
Yee Peng happens near the Mae Jo University about 20 km north of Chiang Mai. We drove there on a moped (which you can hire for 150 Baht/$5 a day) but you need to be fairly confident in driving on the highway and in the traffic after the event.
Alternatively you can take a songthaew (covered pick up truck that functions as a shared taxi) from the Warorot Market in Chiang Mai. It is best to arrange for a driver to pick you up afterwards  as it isn’t always possible to find a shared songthaew back.
Entrance to the festival is free. There are plenty of food stalls, and you are only allowed to use lanterns purchased inside the event (100B/$3).
The ceremony starts at 6pm. We arrived around 3pm but this was too early – 4.30pm or 5pm would have been fine.

Wednesday, 15 April 2009

Highlights of 1 Year in South America

Us at La Cuesta del Obispo while road tripping in Northwest Argentina
Us at La Cuesta del Obispo while road tripping in Northwest Argentina
Last Tuesday we celebrated one year of travelling (and 10 days before that our blogoversary), all but four days of which were spent in South America. It’s an important milestone for us, as when we left the UK we had saved a years worth of travel funds to give us the chance to make Simon’s Line In web design business work. If we couldn’t make the digital nomad lifestyle sustainable after a year we planned to head to Asia to teach English.
Luckily we haven’t had to eat too much into our savings and we are nearing the point of breaking even each month. Our never ending voyage is set to continue – we have just moved onto Central America and have plans to visit Europe and North America in the summer.
It hasn’t always been easy (I’ll write about the challenges we’ve faced in the next post) but we have had many memorable experiences, and we don’t regret leaving at all. Here are our highlights of a year spent travelling as digital nomads in South America, visiting Brazil, Argentina, Paraguay, Bolivia, Peru and Colombia.

Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro – Brazil

Bonde in Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro
Bonde (cable car) in Santa Teresa
We had a bumpy start to our new life arriving in Rio, but we were quickly won over by the charms of the Santa Teresa neighbourhood. Cobblestone streets, colourful graffiti and quiet plazas were much more our style than the high rises and busy beaches of Ipanema and Copacabana.

Ilha Grande – Brazil

Lopes Mendes beach, Ilha Grande, Brazil
Lopes Mendes beach, Ilha Grande
Unbelievably in a year in South America we only visited the beach once. We spent our first week on the island of Ilha Grande getting into the swing of the digital nomad lifestyle and avoiding the cruise ship crowds by trekking through the jungle covered hills to discover waterfalls and long stretches of white sandy beaches. We would have stayed longer but we were shocked by the prices and there’s no WiFi.

Buenos Aires – Argentina

Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
One of many cafes in Palermo Soho
We spent two months in Buenos Aires studying Spanish and attempting to learn Tango. It’s our favourite city in South America and the one place we’d definitely like to return to. We loved the graceful architecture, excellent vegetarian restaurants, ice-cream by the half kilo (the best outside of Italy), huge parks, unique music scene, many galleries, and the funky Palermo Viejo neighbourhood.

Learning Spanish

My favourite thing about Latin America is that Spanish is spoken almost everywhere. It’s a fantastic opportunity to travel for an extended period and learn the language. We both took classes in Buenos Aires to get us started and I’ve continued with conversation classes for one week stints in Sucre, Bolivia and Medellin, Colombia.

Horse Riding

Horse riding in Tupiza, Bolivia
Horse riding in Tupiza, Bolivia
From age 7-18 I rode every week, but in my 20s the high prices in England put a stop to that. One of my travel priorities was to get back into horse riding and for Simon to learn too. We have loved galloping through the pampas of Argentina, Wild West landscapes of Bolivia, the Andean mountains of Peru and to a hidden waterfall in Colombia. Simon has picked it up easily and we’ll definitely be riding more in Central America.

Iguazú Falls – Argentina/Brazil

Devil's Throat, Iguazu Falls, Argentina
Devil's Throat, Iguazu Falls
Although we can often be disappointed by big tourist attractions, Iguazú Falls, one of the world’s largest waterfalls, lived up to expectations. Getting up close to such a thunderous volume of water is an incredible sight. We spent a few days exploring both the Brazilian and Argentine sides and taking a full moon walk to Devil´s Throat on Argentina’s bicentenary.

Couchsurfing in Small Town Paraguay

Most travellers don’t bother to visit Paraguay, which is part of the attraction – it’s not often that you get the feeling of having a country to yourselves. We enjoyed theJesuit ruins at Trinidad but Paraguay isn’t about must-see sights or activities and we had our best experience in the small town of San Juan couchsurfing with a Peace Corp volunteer. Our host introduced us to locals and took us to some crazy events like Fire Ball (football with a flaming ball) and a cowboy festival that turned into a rave.

Road Tripping in Northwest Argentina

Quebrada de Cafayate, Argentina
Quebrada de Cafayate
Our best experience in Argentina was renting a car to explore the area around Salta. We loved the red rock canyons, giant cacti, vineyards of Cafayate, multi-hued mountains and pre-Incan ruins. Having the freedom of a car to explore the quiet roads past dusty villages and gauchos on their horses was an added bonus.

Bolivia’s Southwest Circuit and Salt Flats

Arbol de Piedra, Bolivia Southwest
Arbol de Piedra
When people ask us where our favourite place in South America is we say Bolivia. Argentina was a highlight as well, but Bolivia is unique and we had many incredible experiences there. Our jeep trip through the southwest from Tupiza to Uyuni was the most mind blowing – we spent four days at a dizzying altitude of between 4000-5000 metres passing deserts, colourful lakes, volcanoes, flamingos, llamas and giant salt flats.

Sucre – Bolivia


Mercado Central, Sucre, Bolivia
Mercado Central, Sucre
Sucre is probably the most liveable city in Bolivia. We fell for the sunny climate, white colonial buildings, cobbled streets, vibrant market and friendly people. It’s my top pick for Spanish classes too.

Playing With Monkeys in Samaipata – Bolivia

In the chilled mountain town of Samaipata we visited a small wildlife refuge and discovered that monkeys love Simon. He ended up with one on his head and another leading him around the garden!

Spotting Wildlife in the Amazon – Bolivia

Capybara, Pampas, Bolivia
Capybara
Our pampas trip in the Bolivian Amazon region had its ups and downs but it’s hard to complain when you are canoeing so close to hundreds of alligators, capybara, turtles and squirrel monkeys.

Cusco – Peru


View from our hotel in San Blas, Cusco
View from our hotel in San Blas, Cusco
Cusco is the most touristy place in South America and the only place we saw tour groups in shiny buses, but the ancient Incan city is gorgeous and it’s easy to escape the crowds by wandering aimlessly. It’s also the launching point for a visit to Machu Picchu, which we enjoyed despite feeling it was overrated and overpriced.

Circuito Magico del Agua, Lima – Peru

Fountain at Circuito Magico del Agua, Lima, Peru
Fountain at Circuito Magico del Agua
Most people don’t like Lima but for us it was worth visiting just for the wonderful vegetarian restaurant Alma Zen and the Circuito Magico del Agua (Magic Circuit of Water). It’s a park full of many different water fountains that’s only open at night to take advantage of the colourful light displays. It’s a fun and unique night out.

Volunteering in Rural Peru

Quechua woman cooking up a vat of potatoes, Peru
Quechua woman cooking up a vat of potatoes at a community event
Simon’s 30th birthday treat was staying at a comfortable mountain lodge far away from it all in the Peruvian Andes near Huaraz. After a few days reading by the fire, enjoying glacier views and horse riding, we came to an agreement with the owner and exchanged creating a website for their NGO for accommodation and food -  we ended up staying for nearly three weeks. It was an interesting experience to stay in a rural Quechua community with no cars, helping out at the local school and attending acommunity event complete with 50 cooked guinea pigs (we didn’t partake!).

Tropical Fruit

Weird chontaduro fruit, Colombia
Weird chontaduro fruit, Colombia
I enjoyed açai juice in Brazil and fresh orange juice from street carts in Bolivia but nowhere beats Colombia for tropical fruit. The range is incredible and I made it my mission to try as many weird fruits I had never heard of as possible (guide coming soon). Best of all fresh juices are varied and very affordable and you can buy pre-cut mango, pineapple or watermelon for just 1000 pesos ($0.50) on streets everywhere.

Jardín – Colombia

Cafes line Jardin's plaza, Colombia
Cafes line Jardin's plaza
We didn’t explore Colombia as much as we had planned after spending two months in Medellin, but our first stop was an excellent choice. You won’t find Jardín in the guidebooks, which is part of its charm as we were the only gringos in town. There are many pretty villages to explore in the coffee region near Medellin, but we chose Jardín for the chance to horse ride to La Cueva del Esplendor – a waterfall within a cave. Mostly we just loved chilling in the town’s colourful plaza and people watching.

Meeting Other Travel Bloggers

Bloggers lunch at Verdeo, Medellin
Bloggers lunch in Medellin. Left to right: Roman, Scott Kobewka, Lainie of Raising Miro, Us, Yev the Maverick Traveler, Go Big Mike, Miro